Ето защо:
" Santiago Rocha Because they are perfectly usable at the price of 40.000 km OCI's of 72 liters of expensive oils (engine at 10.000 and everything else at 40.000)
They brake front differentials. They require 5 new nitrogen pressure accumulators every 8 years or 150.000 km that cost 3.500 pounds without suspension fluid and labor.
They consume up to 15-16 liters of diesel on the autobahn and at least the same in city.
They are slow.
They are too big outside and modest in length inside.
Tyres are expensive and last less than 50.000 km.
The thing rusts.
Valve clearance must be adjusted regularly. (though it rarely shows a valve or two out of spec)
Front bearings must be adjusted and greased regularly.
Gearbox is crappy, even the 5 speed. It only locks on 4th and 5th gears.
Torque is limited below 2000 rpm deliberately.
Constant high speed cruising will eventually burn the gearbox. And shred the tyres.
Rear differential will leak.
Torsion bars must be adjusted.
Rear springs (250 pounds per) should be replaced together with pressure accumulators.
Rear brakes seize from time to time. Which necessitates replacement of pads and rotors.
All pads wear similarly or faster than the tyres.
Air filter is expensive.
Comes from the factory with no cabin filter.
AC compressor clutch will disassemble.
Alternator will need rebuild, several times.
Headlight bulbs burn.
If you rearend a Fiest it will seem that you had a collision with a tank.
The turbo charge pipe to the intercooler is plastic and will disintegrate costing a fortune.
The headliner will hang on the third year.
Fuel system is prone to clogging from the tank up.
It makes big difference from gas station to gas station and performance will vary vastly with different fuels and different seasons.
Turbocharger will require rebuild, especially the variable geometry.
All vacuum hoses will require replacement on pretty young age.
According to scheduled maintenance fuel injectors will require rejetting at 150.000 km although no one does it including me.
It can snap alternator belts and accessory belt and will do it although checks and replacements.
It will improve it's performance at timing belt replacement irrespective whether it's Toyota one or Dayco and the fact that I do it at half intervals.
It has two big expensive JIS batteries that will last between 2 and 4 years. Because it will either overcharge them, undercharge them, overheat them or tortures them with the air geater system for up to 90 seconds after cold start.
Air condition system is primitive, but with three cirquits, put the cool box in max mode and all the Freon temporarily goes there leaving the other two systems empty for several minutes. No catalog on earth has reliable data on how much Freon you have to put in it, they left a glass under the fender to look for bubbles... about 950 grams is alright in case you gave one and it has the same pipe volume... 1350 or whatever is written is overfilling it.
The main electrical junction is under the front AC evaporator, so a clogged drainage pours water on it and burns it. Costing 300 pounds without labor.
The glass lifter mechanism of the drivers door will disassemble itself - unique amongst my 15 cars. Although it's a DIY job and never repeats after some thread lock.
It has less drivers foot length than Skoda Kodiaq, Nissan Quashquai or '16 WV Jetta.
Happy first owner for 13 years and 271.000 kilometers. If there is anyting else, I'll be glad to help."
И още:
" @Santiago Rocha it might run forever... I also replaced rear upper control arms and stabiliser bar links as well as front hub bearings.
Also, the loose vacuum hoses at 8-9 years cause malfunction of EGR that affects the whole intake and the catalytic convertor due to increased soot. The cleaning is painful and expensive.
It's a mountain of a car designed in 1994 (design frozen) and even earlier. For 1994 it is several times more reliable than classmates, but still ridiculous from modern point of view. Driven long enough it will consume an entire Tesla Model X in maintenance and fuel.
Have in mind I am a car guy and a hobbyist and I have a very good and knowledgeable mechanic. It's a pain to use this thing. The good part is it only goes to the shop 2-3 times of the year.
Most "reliable" 100's are just as reliable as 1969 MB W115 220D automatic. It will start, will move, turn and brake. The list for maintaining a 70's car is endless. Starting with adding oil to the fuel pump, regular piston rings replacements and fuel injectors rejetting. All that is part of the normal maintenance.
Opel 30E had 500.000 km warranty in the Senator A1... Under the condition that you replace the timing cover and the oil pump wheels every 60.000 km... (Timing cover is also oil pump housing)
And so on, and so on.
The 100 is a continuation of that breed of old cars. It should be babied in order to be "reliable". If you had Senator, Omega and Cherokee like me in the past, then you have the habits to baby cars... But it gets old on me now."
И дори още повече:
"Wheels are 8x18 and the tyres are either 275/60/18 or 285/60/18, the latter size offering better summer tires and the former better winter models.
With such a narrow wheel and such a wide tires and it's suspension geometry, it never goes straight with straight steering wheel. Wind, road draining slope and tracks from lorries in the asphalt make it always go either left or right, so the steering wheel is constantly turned in either direction. Entirely different driving habits for that thing."
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